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Bangles aims to serve an Indian audience, but also attract mainstream American diners, with a little upscale polish, plus some fusion touches. A recent visit set our mouths aflicker with classic takes on Chettinad curries, Hyderabadi biryani, luscious prawns in coconut masala gravy, lamb pepper fry and an outstanding curry leaf fried chicken.

We also loved modern takes like the curry leaf corn soup, lotus root scallops, and a dahi vada starter whose yogurt-glazed lentil fritters are striped with a web of chutneys.

Conservative eaters love it by day, when the Plescha family’s riverside haunt has a long track record as an unpretentious destination for pancakes and eggs, house-ground burgers (patties infused with butter!

) and the slow-fermented, hand-rolled “extra fat” brioche doughnuts rolled hot in sugar that are worthy of the trip itself.

At times, this menu can feel like an autopilot throwback to decade-old “classics” like the roulade of boneless chicken, the short rib-scallop twist on surf and turf, and beignets.

Ten years ago, Chip Roman’s first bistro gave Conshohocken a sophisticated taste of the New American BYOB movement and became a trendsetter in suburban dining.But my favorite dish here is still the lacy crunch of the onion rava dosa crepe bundled over masala potatoes.At first glance, little has changed in the decade since I last drove deep into the heart of Chester County to visit this cafe.There’s almost always stuffed roast pheasant, fresh fish with wild mushrooms, rack of lamb with minted risotto, and warm butterscotch cake for dessert.But so much here has, in fact, continued to evolve in the very best way.

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